On this page its all about the feeder insects. you can learn about how we keep and breed our own insects.
The species that we breed are:
Then we also use super worms here and there, but these we do not breed.
We dont breed crickets in large amounts as they are mainly used for our babies from our smallest monitors like kingorum´s.
Our cricket setup is pretty simple. We use a 30L plastic box, where the lid is made with a fine metal mesh, to allow for a good airflow.
Inside the box we stack egg crates to maximize the usable surface. They also a water container as their only source of moisture. The water containeris a plastic cup with a lid. We have cut a hole i the lid, the size of a pinky finger. Then we have used a piece of a old t-shirt that is rolled up so it fitsin the hole that was cut in the lid. The piece of t-shirt is long enough to reach the bottom of the cup, and to reach about 1-2 cm above the lid. Then the cup is filled to 90% with water and the lid is added, and it is ready to use.
The box is placed in our reptile room where the temperature is around 26-28c.
Food for the crickets is made from chicken food( for hatchling chicks ), corn flour, spirulina and moringa powder.
Breeding the crickets is not complicated, they basically just require a moist media to lay their eggs in. We use unfertilized potting soil, yhat is being kept slightly moist.
We remove the laying cup every 6 days, and place it in a cricket box ( feeder insect box ), and just leave them in the room.
Raising the babies also dont give any problems, as long as they always have food and water available. The raising box is similar to the box the adult crickets are kept in.
Food and water cup is the same as for the adults.
Dubia breeding is pretty easy. Basically all you need bic tub, some egg crates and a nice warm place for them.
Our breeding tub for dubia is a 145L tub with a lid. It has 2 ventilation holes, one in each side. The ventilation holes measure about 10x10cm and are covered with a fine metal mesh. In the front there is a slidin door, it makes he feeding easier since we cant opten the lid because of how the tub is placed.
Inside the tub we have filled up about 90% with egg crates, to maximize the usable surface area. In the front of the tub we have an open area, that is used for feeding.
The temperature inside the tub is 26-30c during the day, and since the room cools down a bit during the night, the night temperature is around 24c.
As food we use a variety of fruits and vegetables. They get apple, banana, orange, pear, carrots, dandelion flowers and leaves.
As the dry food we have made our own mix, it consists of chick food, corn flour, spirulina and moringa powder. Sometimes we add a bit of calcium powder to the mix.
When feeding and keeping the habitat good for the dubia, they should reach adulthood within 4-6 month
The dubia is sexually dimorphic, so when adult it is very easy to sex them. Males have wings and females dont.
Red runnerd are in some places considered a pest. But where we live the climate is not really ideal for them, so if any escapes, they will not breed in our home.
The red runners makes a great food source for smaller monitors like kingorum and storri. Even ackies loves them. But for the ackiesthey are more a snack then a real meal ( you have to use a good amount if you want to use them as a stable for ackies).
Like the dubia, the red runners can also not climb smooth surfaces. So our breeding boxes/tubs for these smaller roaches are made of some 32L plastic boxes/tubs. Air holes are made in the topof the sides all the way around. Te holes are made by using a soldering iron. This can be rather smelly so its preferred to be done outside. About 90% of the box are filled up with egg crates, to maximize the usable surface area.
They like it warm, so our boxes/tubs are placed so that they have about 30-32c during the day, andabout 24c during the night.
As food they get stuff like apples, pears, banana and dandelion flowers.
They get our hoe made dry food that is made up from chick food, corn flour, spirulina and mulberry powder. Sometimes we add a bit of extra calcium to the mix.
Like the dubia, the red runners are also sexually dimorphic, as the adult males have wings and the females do not.
The food we use for our waxworms is our own recipe, it is what has worked well for us. There are many ways too breed waxworms, and many different types of food.
so here is the one that works well for our breeding.
4 tablespoon glycerin.
1 tablespoon bee pollen.
Its easy to mix together if you heat the honey first, so it gets thin.
after mixing it, leave it to cool down and for the oats to suck up moisture.
After about 1 hour it is good to use, and the leftovers can be stored in the cooler in a plastic bag or an airtight container.
The breeding container can be a plastic container with a metal mesh in the lid. then added about 5cm of waxworm food in the bottom, and you can add a piece of egg crate on top of the food for the waxworms to pupae on.
Depending on how many waxworms you want, you can add anywhere from 10 and up of ready to pupae waxworms. if placed at around 26-28c you will have moths within a few weeks. The adult moths do not eat, so no need to think about feeding them. After less then 1 week all the adults are ofter dead, and have laid lots of tiny eggs. Shortly after yo will be able to see tiny tunnels in the waxworm food, that is the first sign that the waxworms have started to hatch. After they have hatched, you will see them growing rather fast, and that means they will eat alot of food, so keep an eye on the container so they dont run out of food, and to make sure they dont get too warm so you get condensation on the inside of the container as it can kill off the waxworms.